Here is the story on the fireplace prototype that is published in the current issue of WOOD Magazine (May 2014, Issue 225.)

My clients have a gas insert installed into an old fireplace. The insert did not fit completely into the fireplace and the surround was just outright hideous. This is when I got the call to see what I could do for them.

The original fireplace with an ill-fitting gas insert, poor design, and just outright hideous.

We had an initial meeting and talked over some ideas. They wanted to move forward with the project even though I had not hammered out anything solid. They really liked my ideas and trusted me since I had done work for them before.

At that time, I was hitting a point of serious burnout. When I hit a period of burnout, I have issues with trying to make the thought process flow as it normally does. I don't do well sitting in front of the computer drawing in SketchUp and I can't make a go of it on paper. But I still do well handling something tangible such as model parts. Since my mind was fried, I was not even going to deal with doing conversions for a scale model so I just built the model in full scale.

Determining proportions on fireplace prototype.

Yeah, I know you're thinking, "Why doesn't he just take time off?" Well, I have my own business and it doesn't work that way. I gotta make hay when the sun shines because January thru April are typically very lean months. When the jobs start coming in again I just work until I drop.

For modeling in cardboard, I purchase 4'x8' sheets from Xpedex. They have shipping supplies such as boxes, slip sheets, packaging, etc. Another good place to get cardboard sheets is from Costco or Sam's Club. If you ask they will usually let you take the slip sheets that come between merchandise on pallets. Slip sheets are typically 42"x48" (approx.) For assembly, I just use a hot glue gun to put it all together, this is great as it works out fast and holds just fine.

Building the fireplace prototype in full scale, complete with varied thicknesses and reliefs.

After presenting the prototype to my clients, they were just absolutely impressed and sold on the project. Although it impressed them that I built a full scale model, the fact is I did it because I could not hardly keep a clear thought in my head due to burnout, but I still pulled off a great design.

Here is one key to coming up with a good design: use the architecture of the house and the overall design of the environment to guide you on the project. You might do a flawless job on a project, but if it does not flow well with the overall design of the house, that is a point of failure.

One point to keep in mind when using a model: The model helps give a good sense of how the project will look and is a point of reference for what works and does not work. Changes do not require a new model be made, the changes agreed upon are implemented in the final project itself.

The fireplace surround installed and complete.

If you are interested in seeing the progress photos of the project that I posted for my clients to follow, you can check them out here: Fireplace Project Album

In the fireplace album you will see the original reference photos, lots of progress photos (especially of the cardboard model), and the final project from a few different angles. There are no captions, the images alone pretty much tell the story.

That is all for now and until next time, be safe in your own shop!

Your friend in the shop-

Todd A. Clippinger

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Shop Tip

During the construction of a project there is often a need for organizing and storing parts. This is obvously a temporary need because as the work progresses, you construct parts and then assemble them.

I like to use a 4' scaffold as a mobile cart to store and organize the parts that I have made.

Using 4' scaffold as a mobile parts cart.

I bought my scaffold for $99 although I have noticed that the price has risen on them over the last couple of years. It comes with steel platform shelves to stand on and I used plywood to make more shelves. If it is not in use and I need more room, the shelves are removed so it can be folded and put in the storage room.

There are some nice storage carts on the market but I can still use this on a remodeling job as a scaffold. So it serves a dual purpose as it works well in the shop and in the field.

Designing & Project Modeling

I see a lot of discussions online about how to model and when it is appropriate. There are articles that describe a romantic process of applying the formulas for determining proportion, balancing that with artistic expression, and topping it off with a little social sophistication.

I do model work quite frequently for my projects and it is a function that seems rather pedestrian and normal in my shop.

I am currently working on some rustic cabinetry that is being constructed from doug fir beams, these were left over from the construction of a timber frame home (See previous entries to find out more.) I did the drawings in SketchUp and they looked pretty good.

SketchUp detail of cabinet doors.

However, I did have some reservations. One thought was that the rail on the bottom of the upper cabinets looked a little narrow. I also wanted to confirm the placement of the middle rail which separate the upper and lower panels.The best way to confirm the design was to make a full scale model.

The thing to remember with a model, is just that - it is a model. It is not necessary to use the intended or traditional joinery to build it, nor is it necessary to use the actual material. It can be hot glued, super glued (cyanoacrylate), stapled together out of cardboard, styrofoam, or any inexpensive material to create a representation in form.

In this case I used the actual stock because I wanted to see how the material I am using would handle. To date it has been giving me fits that at times just kills me.

For this model, I cut the pieces to the exact width and length so that I could arrange them on the table. This allowed me to see the outside dimension and play with the negative space, that would be where the panels go, by moving the middle rail into a location that "felt" right visually. This confirmed that the best location for it was where I had placed it in the SketchUp drawing.

The real quesion in my mind was about the bottom rail. I was not sure that it actually was wide enough to be properly in balance and proportioned to the overall width and height. There seemed to be no exact answer on this matter, but there was a range of acceptability.

My original drawing started out with a 3 1/2" wide bottom rail.

3 1/2" bottom rail just a bit small.

You will notice in the photo above that there are three more blocks of wood laying next to the door model. By adding each one I could make the rail 4 1/4", 4 1/2". or 5" wide.

The 3 1/2" rail felt narrow so I decided to go to the far end of the range of acceptability. I tried 5 1/2" but that was a bit too wide, so I immediately cut it down to 5" and it seemed that I had hit the other end of the limit pretty good.

5" bottom rail just a bit too big.

After trying all of the sizes I decided that the 4 1/2" bottom rail felt the best. It would also work with the overall plan in consideration of the other cabinets that will be part of the project. Some of the cabinets will go floor to ceiling and they may need a larger bottom rail yet. Everything will need to tie together proportionally.

After getting the layout and component sizes confirmed, I used cyanoacrylate glue to assemble the panel frame pieces. Remember - this is a model, there is no need to use traditional joinery. However, there is value to using the intended joinery if you need to do test runs to understand the handling characteristics of the material.

A quick assembly with cyanoacrylate.

I attached a piece of plywood to the backside and inserted some panel material that was too warped to use in the actual project. I cut the panels to drop into the frame then glued and face nailed it with the brad nailer.

Inset panels are added to the model, they are just glued and face nailed.

Now I have an accurate representation of how the actual panels will look.

I did not need to use the actual material, but I had enough and wanted to test it's handling characteristics. I can also show the clients a picture via email or the actual panel so they can have confirmation of how it will look.

Finished model confirms door proportions.

As you can see, models are quite often a part of the normal design process. Drawings in proportion will reveal a lot of issues with proportion and balance, but sometimes you just need the full mass of the project in front of you to make a final decision. If the project is too large, even a scale model will help.

I hope this helps you understand the function and importance of modeling. It is not just for artsy studio projects, but for common projects like cabinetry as well.

Your friend in the shop - Todd A. Clippinger

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